Installing
End Panels: #1

Just Look at that Sap
Remarkably little
of the sap showing on this side went through to the visible side. What
little did, I touched up with that stuff Jeff Jewitt puts in the little
bottles. It only takes a drop or two to ruin all your bed sheets if
you sweat at night and were too exhausted to take a shower. And I used
to think only Sissies wore those thin rubber gloves.
I used it very diluted after a wash
coat of shellac, then sprayed. After rubbing with steel wool, I applied
my top secret ageing formula - brown kiwi shoe polish. This has to be
done long before the owner gets home, since it has a distinctive familiar
smell, and few of us wear our Gucci's on installation jobs.
A couple core box router bit lines are
visible on the side, since it wanted to cup in the shop. The end panel
is leaning against the window, and you are looking at the back of it.
The panel is very thick, so I hacked a taper to it with a power plane
to remove stress risers. I use a modified Makita for general purpose
planing. If you have a Makita, you may want to watch the video on how
to quickly modify yours for a deeper cut. Here's a link to my Index
of Videos.
The plywood behind the stile and against
the wall are spacers for the end panel.
Installing End Panels:
#2
Looking Down on the Top
The End Panel bottom
is shown here leaning against the top. It has been dadoed to accept
the 1/2" spline on the countertop.
The butchered plaster
around the window was indeed done by me. A previous trim guy had cased
the windows with poplar, and had attached the backing for it by screwing
and nailing through the rock lathe into scraps. He then had cut back
the rock lathe along his casing line, so the lathe butted his casing.
The plasterer had then skim coated to the casing.
What bummed me so bad
was that I then had to mill my casing as wide as his to hide everything.
And his was way too wide for that place already.
Installing End Panels:
#3

Rabbetted Stile
Sequence
is the name in the installation game. Since I had no idea, given whatever
shape that room actually was, exactly where the cabinets would start
and end up, I opted to not even make the end panels until after the
cabinet units and the paneling were both installed.
That way I could get
the maximum panel width, and minimum stile width possible to show off
the boards (matched with those on the opposing cabinet end) that I had
been saving for the end panels. To further this aim I opted for flat
panels coupled with an overlay molding I had copied from a piece of
Victorian furniture a long time ago. I don't think the owner ever noticed
that he has "reverse raised panels" on the ends.
The stile is deeply
rabbeted to accept the end stile of the paneling which was screwed extremely
tightly to the wall prior to the end panel being put on.
After the end panel was in, those screws were removed. This left a significant
hidden gap between the edge of the paneling stile and the bottom of
the rabbet for movement. I've been fond of the hidden gap for many years.
Installing End Panels:
#4

What's With These Lousy
Glue Tops
Anyway? Hey Titebond
CEO. Get you head out where the sun can
shine. The old ones were cheaper anyway!
You can see that the
extra thick edge of the end panel stile is flush with the front face
of the adjacent face frame. (By the way, that lower end panel didn't
fall out, it's just leaning there resting a bit.)
Instead of grinding most
of the wood off the boards then paying to have it hauled off, I was
able to get enough thickness out of selected 5/4 that the edges of the
end panels doubled as backers for the pilasters. This eliminated a long
glue joint with its associated sanding, eliminated a change in grain
on prominent corners, and greatly facilitated minor planing chores.
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